Dr. Seuss said it best: "Don't cry because it's over. Smile because it happened."

Five things I will miss from Doha, Qatar:

1. Friends, friends, and again - friends.
2. Labneh, mint lemonade and Arabian desserts eaten with good friends.
3. Walking in the souqs - browsing for exotic bargains with friends.
4. Great restaurants and great evenings with friends.
5. Retirement and so much time to spend with friends.

Five things I will not miss from Doha, Qatar:

1. Driving in round abouts.
2. Driving and worrying about rear enders.
3. Driving and then standing at a red light for a minimum of 6 minutes.
4. Driving and having an accident, and then worrying about blood money if my driving is found to be at fault.
5. Driving sedately on a local side street and then trying to get out of the way of white suv's barrelling down on you at 120km an hour. 

That's all, folks! 

See you on the pages of my new blog:

Cabbages and Kings -

Tales from Canada.

Stealthy Retreat and Hasty Homecomings.

The decision was easy once we knew there was a permanent job back in Canada. Leave as soon as possible! And so began our surreptitious and stealthy retreat. 

In the end, we were thankful to have the rental car and house lease in our names as it meant that we could bypass the employer completely and not have to tell them of our plans.

We gave notice at the compound without any problems from the rental agency.
We sold all unnecessary furniture and household goods to those incoming ex-pats - I placed one ad in the local ex-pat community website and all of the stuff was gone in 3 days flat.
We booked ourselves on a flight out that left on a Thursday - Friday being a holy day - his presence would not be missed at work.
We paid for all services that we used up to the last day (another strange system: go to the Electricity Commission, have papers stamped and signed, and then.... take officer in your car with you - back to your home so that he can check the metre, take him back and, finally! hand over cash).
We arranged for international movers to pack our valuables (including a mountain of books) and ship back to Canada.
We even got all the approval papers for shipping a kitten! (who has since found a wonderful home and is a very happy ex-pat cat himself!)

We told few people of our pending flight from ex-pat life until the very last days.
We said our tearful goodbyes to good friends we had made.
We went for "one last time" to the souq, to our favourite restaurants, and favourite walks.
We gave our car back and rented one from Avis - my good old standby.
We stayed the last week at a friend's home - talk about hospitality and helping friends in time of need!

And then it was the last day at last - and the only thing left to get through was security at the airport - fingerprints and all. Multi-exit visa worked successfully. Canadian passports left their usual impressions.
We made it!  And the company could not do anything drastic because they were kept in the dark until our return to safe home ground.

Nerve-racking and nail-biting as it was, we are very glad to be back in a country where rules are rules - known and followed for the most part.
Where traffic accidents and fatalities aren't de rigueur.
Where religious diversity is tolerated and
Where women have equal rights.
Where passports aren't confiscated and
Where a Human Rights Commission actually stands for something.

Oh! Canada - our home and native land...

are we glad to see you!

Last Days

Now that all the decisions have been made and the details worked out, we can spend our last few days in nostalgic contemplation.

2009 has been a rollercoaster ride - a little bit adventurous and exciting; a little bit nerve-racking and frightening.  All in all though, I wouldn't exchange it for anything else and you know the old Afrikaans saying:

"Wat jou nie doodmaak nie, maak jou sterk" - "What doesn't kill you, will make you strong".

We have had some wonderful adventures: Jordan and Petra ruin, Malaysia and Kuala Lampur, Mabula Game Reserve.
We have learned about a new culture and picked up a few Arabic words.
We fulfilled a dream and became certified open water scuba divers.
And most of all - we have made some strong and lasting friendships.

In the last week, we have created more wonderful memories:

A drive up the coast to the northernmost tip of the peninsula to watch the fishermen bring in their last catch of the day - watching herons and ducks plodding at the water's edge looking for a tasty meal, old men repairing fishing nets, and young one's hauling the boats in over the high tide mark.  And everywhere stillness only broken by another muezzin's call to prayer. 

A dhow cruise on the harbour at sunset - all by ourselves except for the two smiling crewmen. Sailing on quiet waters with nothing more than the soft rumblings of an old engine under the deck, and canvas flapping and billowing in the breeze.  As we glided across the still waters, we watched the sun go down behind us and in front of us, the buildings lit up with a twinkling and sparkling array of bright lights.   The sun dappled the water in an orange glow and hundreds of lights danced on rippling water.   We stood together and wished on the first star in the night sky.       

A last dinner with friends, laughing over past exploits and promising future adventures.

Sterkte & Seize the Day!

Sponsorship or Monstership?

I will preface this blog with the acknowledgement that many ex-pats in the Middle East are happy to be there and feel fulfilled and valued by their various employers.  Many companies - both domestic and foreign - treat their employees well, adhere to contracts and are reasonable in their demands. 

.....However!
Heaven help you if you get caught up in the web of deceit and lies of a company who is more concerned with impressing foreign owners,  bottom lines and personal accrual of wealth, who consistently turn a blind eye to safety, ethics and integrity.  Back in their home countries - whether it be Germany, Australia, etc -they would never be able to get away with the slimy business practice they consistently mete out while they are far from the watchful eyes of shareholders, government regulators, human rights laws, and college/association ethics committees.

From personal experience, I can tell you that it is numbingly frightening not to get paid on time, or to have rent monies withheld until they deign to pay you, whilst living in a foreign country.  Waving written and signed contracts under their noses are not of any concern to them. Statements and details in black and white triplicate, stamped with company logos and sealed in wax make not the slightest whit of difference.  
Try going to a lawyer! Finding one who speaks English is nearly impossible and when you do they shrug their shoulders and state that you are living in an area operating under sharia law.  Very difficult to prove your case, and even more rare to having findings in your favour - never mind the months and possibly years it will take to wend it's laborious way through the system.   So the attitude that prevails amongst these corrupt and dishonest companies is "Catch me if you can" and "Let's see who has deeper pockets".

In the last few months of our stay in Qatar we dealt with the following:

• A contract that stated the recipient would be paid in US dollars, which was changed to Euros (when the Euro sank) and then to local currency in the end.
• A contract that stated that there was long-term disability and medical insurance (it turned out that it only worked if you were from the home country and previously employed by them in the home country) - and for awhile we lived there without coverage until we could arrange our own.  
• All other employees wives, as long as they were from the home country, were included in the medical insurance - but not us - we had to pay an extra 400 Euros each month for the privilege. 
• Insistence that we put the rental agreement and lease of house arrangements in our name- that way the company is off the hook if you leave prior to the end of your contract. (Home country ex-pats were excluded from this arrangement).  
• Rent was paid late and we were even asked to fund it.
• Salary was paid late two months in a row, with no explanations and no communication as to when it would be paid
• Vacation was denied even though it had been written into the contract 
• Obligatory purchase of a cell phone for company use
• Working hours were from 7.30am to 6pm, for six days per week, and you were expected to work overtime on a regular basis.  Taking time off for medical/dental appointments was frowned upon.

The final straw? Being told to hand over passports to the company so that they could change it to a single entry exit visa.  This woul mean, in effect, that the company would have absolute control over whether you leave the country or not.  Single exit visas require a company letter documenting their approval that you leave the country. Without that letter you are unable to leave!!!!  

And so began a stealthy retreat to extricate ourselves from their clutches.

Restaurants & Eating out in Doha

Talking about favourite foods leads me to talk about restaurants.  Our favourite restaurant choices are always Lebanese, Persian, Turkish, Syrian, or some Arabian type where the waitstaff are perennially courteous and prompt, the menus display mouth-watering fare making it difficult to choose just the right dish, and the ambiance - always a pleasure.  The restaurants exude a quiet, oasis-like quality, some richer in style than others, but always interesting decor featuring geometric patterns in wood paneling and floors, stained glass lamps, silk and satin cushions, and Persian rugs scattered with abandon.

A frequent stop was Sarai - a Turkish style restaurant, complete with waiters in traditional costume.  Low lighting, clay floors and dark wood lent an olde worlde charm, together with dishes that were quite out of the ordinary.    

At Tajine, the Moroccan restaurant in Souq Waqif you can enjoy traditional Tajine which refers to both the pot the food is cooked in and the food within. The design of the earthenware pot stops condensate from leaving the pot, retaining all flavour until the tender meat is placed in front of you and the lid of the top removed.  While the service is absolutely hopeless - the food is excellent, and after your meal you can relax on tables outside the restaurant on the cobbled road watching the world go by. 

Another Souq Waqif must is Al Bandar Seafood restaurant.  It sits on the outskirts of the souq with window views looking out onto Al Corniche and the West Bay skyline.  Inside there are enormous fish tanks with beautifully coloured tropical fish lazily swimming about.  And if that's not enough to relax you, there is always the opportunity for a masseuse who will proceed to give you a stress-relieving shoulder, arm and hand massage while you wait for your meal to appear.

Souq Waqif is definitely a favourite haunt - never tired of going there, and always find a delightful restaurant.  Isfahan Restaurant is an absolute must for the tourist and the food is good, too!  It is decked out in mirrored tiles, and an assortment of artifacts that never cease to amaze.  You can eat Iranian style sitting on a cushion on a carpet, or the more conventional table and chairs method.  According to my sources, it took 2 years to complete and cost over a million riyals due to it's glass mozaic which runs from the floor to the ceilings. There's also some amazing artistic designs on the wall. 

We were introduced to Turkey Central by Patsy and John, and would go there again and again.  Simple, down home Turkish food, eating along banks of formica tables.  Noisy, wholesome, and friendly.  An entire meal, including drinks, appetizers and entrees for seven people: $30 - what's not to like? 

And last, but not least - Ric's Kountry Kitchen - a greasy spoon breakfast diner, a home away from home, where we were happy to get our fill of fried eggs, hash browns and grilled tomato.  No luck on the bacon, however.  But the nostalgic atmosphere made us feel right at home - formica tables, Calgary Stampede posters on the walls, together with American State flags and a few Canadian ones too.   Always full, and always ex-pats, mostly North Americans.

Bon Appetit!

Labneh and other delights

I have developed some taste buds for Middle Eastern cuisine.  Favourite choices are meze dishes - appetizers to be savoured on outdoor patios, watching the world go by.  Meze consists of such exotic names like mutabbal or babaghanoush (an eggplant mash mixed with tajine, lemon juice, and garlic), kibbeh and kofte - spiced and minced meat dishes, labneh - the best of all yoghurts, shanklish - a choice of cheeses from sheep and cows, muhammara - a hot pepper dip with ground walnuts, breadcrumbs and seasoning, and fattoush - a garden vegetable salad with toasted pieces of pita bread.  Of course, there is always hummus.

Simple casserole dishes cooked to perfection in clay pots over coals are just delicious entrees - you are given a wide range of meats to choose from - beef, lamb, goat and camel.  Have to say though, that we never developed a taste for anything other than beef or lamb.  The seasoning is quite different from what we are used to - cardamom, cumin and cinnamon blends added some distinct flavour to the dishes.  Fish dishes are plentiful and always a favourite - best fish in the Gulf - for me at least - hammour, sherry, and lots and lots of shrimp.

My favourite drink: mint lemonade - but not the way we know it - I now prefer the Arabic version that blends mint leaves with the lemonade - the coolest drink on a scorching day.

And I haven't even talked about my all-time favourite - Arabian sweets - I always made room for them - probably why I never lose any weight out here.  They are very sweet so at least you don't eat too many at once, but wow! are they tasty. They usually consist of puff pastry, honey, pistachios, almonds, dates and pine nuts.  Mmmm.    I also like the hot desserts, particularly Um Ali - a kind of Arab-style bread pudding.

Here are some recipes I found:

Mint Lemonade:

2 bunches of fresh mint leaves
1 cup of granulated sugar
5 medium lemons, juiced without seeds
2 1/2 cups of cold water (plus one more if too sweet per your taste)

Directions:

Remove the stems from the mint leaves.
Wash the leaves and press them down into a 1/2 cup measure.
You should have enough leaves to fill the cup.
Place the mint leaves, sugar, and lemon juice in a blender and blend. Strain the mint mixture through a fine sieve and place in a large pitcher.
Add 2-1/2 cups of cold water, and ice if desired.
Stir well.
Chill and serve in cold or chilled glasses garnished with additional mint leaves or a slice of lemon.
If this is too sweet for your taste, add an extra cup of water.

Labneh is strained yogurt and has a cheeselike consistency. It makes a great alternative to sour or cream cheese. Spread it on bread, bagels, or fresh pita.  I will have to find a way of making this myself if I can't find it in the stores back home:

Labneh Ingredients:

• 3 cups plain yogurt
• 1 teaspoon salt

Preparation:

In a medium bowl, combine yogurt and salt.

Place mixture in the middle of large cheesecloth. Bring the sides of the cheesecloth together, making a pouch. Tie the "pouch" with string or twist tie.

Hang in the refrigerator for 12-24 hours with a bowl underneath to catch the whey. You can tie the pouch to a rack in the refrigerator and place a bowl on the shelf below to

Um Ali Dessert:

Ingredients:	Serves 6
- 3 croissant ( 5 if using small or medium size)	- 5 cups milk
- 6 to 7 tablespoons sugar (for the milk)	- 1 1/2 cup heavy cream
- 1 tablespoon corn flour	- 1 1/2 cup mixed nuts + raisins
- 2 teaspoons cinnamon powder	- 1 teaspoon vanilla
- 1 1/2 tablespoon sugar or to tastes (for the    heavy cream)

 
Method:

1- Cut the croissants in halves and distribute them in your baking pan.
2- In a different pan add milk sugar and cinnamon and bring it to a boil.
3- Pour half the milk on the croissant and wait for 3 to 5 minutes. Add the rest of the milk and     again wait for 5 minutes (depending on the croissant, you might need to add more milk). the     croissant absorbs lot of milk, and by giving it time to absorb the milk you'll know if more milk     is needed. Milk should be at least 3 inch above the croissant.**
4- Sprinkle your mixed nuts on top of the croissant.
5- Mix the heavy cream with sugar and vanilla and pour it on top of the croissant.
6- Since we only need the surface to have a light brown color, place the baking tray in a     preheated oven, keeping only the broiler on.
7- Um Ali is best served hot or warm.

Enjoy!
Bil-hana'wa ash shifa - "May you have your meal with gladness and health".

Sunrise, sunset

Sunrises - I never see many of them.  Sunsets, on the other hand, are plentiful.  

The most memorable:

• sunset over the inland sea - a trip we took with some wonderful friends - Arabian style barbeque, waves washing onto the nearby shore, bedouin tents, lights strung along the tent lines, and the occasional grunts and bellows from the camels.
• sunset at the singing sand dunes - sitting in a huge laager with a large group of South Africans, an enormous campfire, old South African folk songs and Afrikaner liedjies wafting over the dunes, friendly laughter, watching children climb the dunes, listening to the eerie sound of the singing sand dunes.
• sunset on the road as we drove the highway from our visit to the northernmost tip of Qatar - flat desert with the occasional glimpse of civilisation, the fishing dhows in the harbour, egrets, cranes and waterfowl pecking in the shallows of the calm and quiet sea.
• sunset against the minaret of a mosque.
• sunset across the bay, cruising along in a dhow, in the quietness of the bay, watching the lights sprinkle across black buildings in the dusk.
• sunset watching from the Museum of Islamic Arts - ambience set like stage scene - sitting at a table in front of a four story glass window affording an uninterupted view of the Doha skyline across the Bay, fountain water bubbling in the background, and a quiet that is almost palpable. 
• sunset while sipping lattes, or my favourite Arab drink - mint lemonade, lounging outside a restaurant at Souq Waqif, listening to the azaan, or call to prayer coming from four different mosques in the vicinity. 

Life's moments can always take our breathe away if we let it.