Wednesday, May 20, 2009

A Week of Teas, and a few coffees.

It has been an eventful week. With summer on its way, the women's associations are heading into their summer break when most wives return home for a few months and leave the husbands to manage as best they can here in the heat. So time for one last hurrah by all.

First on the agenda was an English High Tea at the Ritz Carlton Hotel. It was oh so posh in the most decadent of surroundings - sweeps of marble floor and a central chrystal chandelier that probably rose two stories. We experienced white glove service, bite size sandwiches and my personal favourite: scones with clotted cream and jam. I tasted my first Middle Eastern tea, served from a Moroccan tea pot and poured into tiny etched glass cups. I chose a Moroccan tea, described on the menu as "a hint of gunpowder with an effusion of mint". Don't think I will try that again - a bit too bitter for my taste.


Next on the list was a Japanese Tea Ceremony hosted by the US Ambassodor's wife at her home. The Japanese Ambassodor's wife performed the ceremony - something she has been studying and practicing for 18 years apparently. It was interesting to participate in the service and the tea (very green) was not half bad. I found the ceremony to be quite soothing and relaxing - almost as if the world out there slowed down for awhile.


And then there were two coffee mornings - one for American Women's Association and one for International ex-pats - really good to attend, as you meet people who exchange ideas and suggestions for living in Qatar that have proved to be quite useful. The conveners also arrange for speakers on a variety of subjects. My coffee companions at the table yesterday were from Norway, New Zealand, U.K, Australia, USA, and me. I am going swimming with the Ozzies on Sunday. Should be fun.

Asalam alaykum

Monday, May 18, 2009

Driving in Doha is driving me crazy.

I know, I know...this is my favourite topic, but I can't help myself. Driving in Doha is an experience in and of itself and I must vent in order to stay sane.

One tip for safer driving - never, never leave the car park without adjusting your mirrors - you really do need eyes in the back of your head. Yesterday, a very stately black car glided nonchalantly beside us. As it passed us by I remarked that the "B" on the trunk must stand for Bentley. Not five seconds later it made a rabid, undignified and uinindicated swerve into our lane - not 6 inches from the hood of our poor little car. Patrick remarked that the "B" would soon stand for "Bashed" if he wasn't more careful.

The wrecks of cars line the roads in pitiful heaps waiting to be collected and buried in their final resting place. Some of them (if the engine continues to run, and there are four wheels able to turn) still play dodgems amongst the traffic, with just a little more panache and zeal than necessary seeming to say "Bash me if you like, the worst is over already". And can someone please tell me why some drivers find it impossible to unglue the cell phone from their ears? The number of one-handed, everyday moves made in round-abouts and straight runs is astounding. And it is always accompanied by drift, as if the two actions of steering and holding a phone require the agility of a Cirque de Soleil artiste.

It's a wild, wild world out there. So in keeping with my wild jungle metaphor I have some analogies to make: We have elephants and hippos adequately represented by the trucks of all sizes, all weights and all loads, that lumber and bellow along every road in Doha. Beware the round-abouts as these animals can stampede their way through very small spaces, leaving devastation in their wake. The taxis are like cheeky monkeys - all around you, jumping up and down, squealing, taunting, stopping anywhere, swinging out when you least expect them and then sqauwking at you as if you're the one who should have waited. The TCN's (third country nationals) are everywhere - like gazelles, buck and antelope - they're quick, they're skittish and focused on getting from a to b in the least possible time. The 4 x 4's, (Hummers included in this group) quite easily the most common animal on the road, can be likened to the water buffalo or the wildebeest - great herding instinct, graze and migrate in droves, a bit of a pack mentality, with a tendency to bulldoze their way around, mindlessly unaware of the smaller species trampled beneath them.

The cat family is also well represented: there are enough Lambourghinis, Maseratis, Ferraris, and Porsches that resemble the cheetah most of all - sleek, fast and powerful as they zip in and out of traffic, usually speeding way ahead, with most of the other animals looking from left to right in that quick tennis head thing when you watch a ball being lobbed from one side of the court to the other in a perfect ace. Another cat - very scarce, very well camouflaged and never in the right place at the right time: the police car, ably represented by the leopard. And what would the jungle be like without the lion - king of the beasts - very territorial, and extremely vocal: Qatari men take to this role like ducks to water.

Qatari women add some flair to the animal kingdom as well - a fairly rare breed, somewhat like the rhinocerus - "don't mess with me" is the distinct message - she may have poor peripheral vision because of the hijab, but she has great instincts. Honorable mention must go to the ex-pat spouse: she is like the meerkat: family oriented, usually travelling with young ones to and from school, or in packs with other ex-pat wives gathering food, friends, and generally having fun. Living mostly in compound villas, she peeks out from her burrow to test the wind first, as she is most comfortable in off-peak hours, then darts to places close by and uses well-frequented watering holes like malls and souqs. If danger threatens, she is likely to scramble back to her burrow and may not venture out for days to come.

Last but not least, the ex-pat worker: mostly male and immanently adaptable. Best likeness - the chameleon, a very flexible creature, eyes rolling everywhere, a good grasp on any branch, and a very quick tongue to secure his authority. He changes himself according to the vehicle he is in (if it's fast, he speeds like a cheetah; if it's a 4x4, he bulldozes like a wildebeest, etc), and according to the passenger - wives require a little patience and forebearance, whereas colleagues require a little bravado. Situations will bring out a different animal as well, as he plays dodgems in peak hour, and slows to a more sedate pace driving to the mall on Fridays. He just might be the best driver on the road, but don't tell him that, it may give him a bigger head than he already has.

To end on an optimistic note though: Each day that all of us venture out into this "wild jungle", the mayhem that ensues does have some positive results: more conversation points are generated; and it prevents one from becoming drowsy or bored, and therefore, more likely to survive. It aids the body in producing blood circulation peaks, also helping to keep the brain producing adrenaline - so important in that fight or flight instinct. Finally, it hones all those defensive driving skills that keep us from being eaten alive.

There is a very clever video on You Tube, called "The Worst Intersection in Doha" - says it all!

Insha'allah

Some real diamonds now.

We have discovered the Gold Souq, made up of many stalls and shops, and virtually tonnes of gold. There is an abundance of 18 and 22 carat gold chains, bangles, earrings and necklaces. Quite a lot of it is beautifully handcrafted by skilled craftsmen, some of whom work on site. Gold is the choice in traditional bridal jewellery bought by young Qatari grooms for their brides-to-be. The designs are usually ornate and opulent, nothing subtle or surreptitious here. Qatari ladies appear to love large, long necklaces heavy with gold; or cluster diamonds - the more the merrier. You can even find tiaras and belts of gold. The price of gold is set according to the weight of the gold on that day's stock market price, and whether the item is handmade or not.

There is also quite a strong pearl market - once upon a time the mainstay of Qatar's economy. Nowadays, most pearls are cultured and come from Japan or China. Apparently there are still some original pearls to be seen here that were brought up from the ocean bed by pearl divers.




It was a fun evening walking from store to store, being beckoned into every one of them by an owner wanting you to buy from him, and only too happy to show off his most expensive and wondrous wares.

Ahh well, no harm in looking is there?

Monday, May 11, 2009

Diamonds and desert dust - a land of contrasts



I have to report that we are beginning to feel quite relaxed and comfortable here. We no longer get quite as lost on the highways and biways; we don't scrabble about as much in the grocery stores, and we have found some interesting haunts to frequent on a more regular basis.


Top favourite: The Souq Waqif - vibrant, lively and distinctly Arabic - a great place to shop, browse, sit at a sidewalk cafe, people watch, or just admire the architecture. We try and get there as often as we can. We were there on Friday morning and given that it is the Holy Day, we did not expect anything to be open. Much to our surprise, we found a couple of hopeful storekeepers standing in their doorways, casually looking out for tourists. We met Mohamed Ali who beckoned us into his store with a flourish and a wide grin. Before we knew it, he had placed a kufi, shibagh and egal on each of our heads and was encouraging us to take pictures.... who could resist? Ended up with photos and my very own shibagh.

We have also found a breakfast joint called Ric's Kountry Kitchen that compares favourably to Russell Williams, our regular breakfast spot in Burlington. And it is just as popular - with a line up out the door at 9am.


And we love Al Corniche - not for nothing is it called the Promenade under the Palms. It affords stunning views of the sea and the city. In our opinion, it far surpasses any of the public access we have seen along Lake Ontario - wide boulevards, no obscured views, no houses or apartments butting right onto the water, spacious park areas, lots of palm trees and plenty places to sit and admire the view. The only drawback: a distinct lack of parking (which is a frustration no matter where you go in Doha).


I think this city and this country will grow on us. No matter where we are, it spills out a cornucopia of wonderful contrasts: crumbling forts and magic malls; or aeons old desert landscapes just minutes away, and modern city skyscrapers stacked against the skyline. A land of world class athletic stadiums, and traditional camel race tracks. A blend of people - old world tailors and cobblers, as well as bankers and businessmen from all four corners of the earth. Donkey carts and Lamborghini's vie for the same space on a road...I have never seen as many Porsche's in one city as in Doha. A synthesis of centuries old culture and religion, meeting with modern technology, and the latest in education, science, and lifestyle. At the very least, a city to watch.

Thursday, May 7, 2009

Whine about weather

It is May, and the temperatures are climbing. These days the heat hovers around the 38 to 42 degree range, and going outside is like voluntarily sticking your head in a pizza oven....and holding it there. However, it is surprisingly bearable - and I tell myself that if I can cope with minus 40 degrees in the deep freeze of a Canadian winter, then the same should be true for +40 don't you think?


Of course, it goes without saying that I am exposed for a very limited time - usually in the late afternoons when I walk to the grocery store to buy the necessities for our evening meal. Some sensible ladies are using umbrellas or hats to ward off the sun, others like me - do the hundred metre dash from one airconditioned space to the next, darting from one shady object to another. I have promised myself an umbrella - I just have to find a lively, interesting specimen, as I don't want to go with boring black.


On the other hand, I have to report my absolute amazement at observing other people who appear to be impervious to the heat. It is currently 12 noon and as I look outside from my eighth floor window to the pool below me, I see at least four people slow roasting in the midday sun. There they are, basking in tiny bikinis and speedos, totally oblivious to the heat shimmer radiating about their feet, and seemingly indifferent to the prospect of keratosis, melanomas and the like. Just gobsmacked I am... Perhaps it takes successive increments of exposure. Perhaps the sunworshippers are longtime residents. Perhaps...but I think I will continue to be wary of the heat, and I don't think it hurts to complain about it. After all, it becomes a topic of conversation, just as it does in Canada. Plus ca change plus c'est le meme chose....

Sunday, May 3, 2009

Browsing at Souq Waqif

The souq has become a regular haunt for us. Apparently, it used to be a trading area for the Bedouin. Nowadays, it's a venue for everyone - local Qatari's who buy clothing, Arabic incense, spices, and perfumes. Ex-pats and tourists join in; bargaining for carpets, scarves and beads.

There are a myriad of stores and stalls selling all sorts of wares: pots so big you could fit a person inside, tailors ready with tape measures and pins to outfit you for any and all occasions, fabric stores with hundreds of bolts of fabric, even pet stores that sell budgies and rabbits. It's like walking in a maze, just a labyrinth of alleyways and corridors - some dark and sombre, some packed tightly with people, and always the aroma of spices and incense.




The buildings are designed in typical Arabic architectural style: geometric designs, arches, niches and iwans - with high ceilings and tiled floors. We love to walk with no purpose in mind, and then having the pleasure of discovering a new stall, unique item, or a previously undetected passageway.


After our stroll, usually as dusk approaches, we sit down at one of the many coffee shops and restaurants for a relaxing drink or meal: coffee, or my new favourite: a concoction of lemon juice and crushed mint leaves, that looks questionable, but tastes fabulous. The atmosphere is comfortable, but exotic. There are shisha's being smoked (water pipes with flavoured tobacco or fruits), authentic arabian cuisine to be eaten - it really is a popular social meeting point.


And always a stint of people watching - trying to discern what language people are speaking or where they originate. The souq is a place where east and west merge in a very comfortable fashion. My favourite person - the 'wheelbarrow boy' as he is called. Although he is usually an old man, dressed in traditional wear, ready and willing to trundle your purchases to your vehicle.

Ma'a salaamah till next time.

Saturday, May 2, 2009

You know you have lived in the Middle East when...

Couldn't resist this one. I found this composition on a local website:
You know you have lived in the Middle East when:
  • you enjoy camping in the sand
  • you are not surprised to see a goat in the passenger seat
  • your idea of housework is leaving a note for the houseboy
  • you wear a jacket inside and take it off when you go outside
  • you think carpets belong on the wall
  • you know which end of the shawarma to unwrap first
  • you know exactly how much alcohol allowance you have left for the month
  • you define nanosecond as the time interval between when the traffic light turns green and the guy behind you leans on his horn
  • you send friends a map instead of your address
  • you can receive every television station except the local station
  • you get used to getting hot water from the cold tap in the summer
  • you accept that there is no point in asking why you are not allowed to do something
  • you expect queues to be one person deep and 40 people wide
  • seeing guys welcome each other with a kiss and hold hands while walking no longer distracts you
  • you carry 12 passport size photos around with you just in case
  • you can tell the time by listening to the local mosque
  • you thinks it's a good night if there are fewer than 10 men for every woman in a bar
  • you can't buy anything without asking for a discount