Last night we joined throngs of avid soccer fans to watch the much publicized Brasil vs England game. Having learned from experience we knew to go early, so even though the game started at 8pm, Mike and Meg picked us up at our villa at 5.45pm. Using backroads and ingenuity, Mike got us to Al Khalifa Stadium and parked (a true feat I must say) by about 6.15pm.
The atmosphere at the stadium was electric - the Aspire Tower loomed above us all like a beacon inviting everyone in, and the stadium arches were lit up with dazzlingly bright lights. I probably joined the largest crowd of people I have ever been in - the stadium was filled to the rafters with 50,000 of us. There were people everywhere, sporting every kind of dress, speaking a Babel of languages; and all with only one goal - supporting one or the other team. There were British top hats, and flags of both nations, wigs of yellow and green, or red and white. There were flags painted on faces, and all sorts of noisemakers to add to the buzz.
You knew you were in the Middle East because alongside the British band belting out Beatles songs and some smartly dressed Beefeaters marching and dancing around, there were camels resting on Persian rugs waiting for passengers and photo ops. There was a goat hair tent where you could view typical Bedouin activities like weaving, and another one designated as a rest tent with rugs and pillows on the ground. You definitely knew you were not in Europe or America as the refreshment tents only served water or coffee. Our snake-like, looooong line-up to get through security seemed to go on forever with an occasional two step shuffle forward. In the end though, I think someone decided to just do a "move on out" to get us all seated in time, because when we actually got to security it hardly seemed secure. We were seated by 7.45pm.
Meg had snagged us some really good seats at the centre line so we could see play anywhere. The start ceremony was memorable. When the players entered, the stadium was darkened and we all waved the neon blue stick that we had been given at the gate - it was like looking at a blue haze. Then the balloons shot skyward, the lights came on, the giant flags were paraded in, the anthems were sung and the game began!!
We had never been to a world class soccer match before and it was wonderful to be part of a crowd of fans who were as entertaining as the players themselves. Drums beating, horns blowing, chants coming from every direction, and hearing the ritual songs they sing to liven up the play. Mexican waves came in waves and hardly ever petered out - it was great watching it flow across the stands in a whirl around the whole stadium. The funniest part was watching the wave stop dead before the Royalty and dignatories section which was right opposite us. I guess it was considered too undignified - no problem for the fans though - the blip didn't phase them, the wave just started up again in the very next section over. Fans in the stands weren't rowdy at all and in fact, there were pockets of quiet every now and again....I wonder if the lack of booze had anything to do with that?
As to the play itself, Brasil certainly looked like the winning team. For myself, I rooted for the Brits - was impressed with the tall and lanky Peter Crouch, and Wayne Rooney was so energetic - loved it when he argued with the ref; and anyway I always like the underdog.
Ah, well, a great night out with friends and another little adventure tucked under our belts.

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